Cookie Season: Chocolate Chip Oatmeal with Ras el Hanout

It’s cookie season, so I thought I would start posting a few of my favorite repeats. Ras el hanout, if you aren’t familiar with it, is a SWANA spice blend. Every ras el hanout blend is different (like chili spice blends). And like chili spice blends, ras el hanout is normally used in savory dishes. But this NYTimes recipe adds it to cookies and it really works. It adds a subtle warmth to the cookies and a complex under flavor. I used the blend from Stock and Spice in Portsmouth, NH. Here’s a gift link to the recipe (anyone by the paywall for a few weeks after I post).

The problem with sourdough…

My sourdough starter (it doesn’t have a name, though friends have asked) was about two years old when the pandemic started. It’s quite perky. I don’t bake enough to want to feed it daily, so I keep it in the fridge and feed it once a week. That works grand.

The question (and for some, the problem) with a sourdough starter is what to do with the discard -when you remove some of the starter before adding fresh flour and water to keep the ratio of food to yeast in balance. Just to toss it would be a waste. I’ve ended up with a nice collection of recipes aimed at using the discard.

For bread itself, I do love the King Arthur Do Nothing Sourdough. Some folk find it a too wet do. I add about 65-75g. of seeds and grains for flavor and texture (I like the KAB Harvest Grains), but it does also make it a more manageable dough.

While I don’t bake with mixes, the last one I regularly used with the Jiffy cornbread mix. Then I discovered this sourdough cornbread recipe on The Gingered Whisk. My mother called it the best cornbread she’s ever eaten.

The Sourdough Crackers (also KAB) are very popular in my office. I really enjoy Penzey’s Mural of Flavor as the herbs in them.

I also like KAB’s Old Fashioned Maine Waffles, that includes part whole wheat flour – perfect for a weekend brunch.

Finally, I want to highlight the Sourdough Flatbread from Raspberries and Kohlrabi. Although the title says no yeast, what they mean is no commercial yeast. I’ve used it with both Mediterranean dishes and curries.

But all the recipes at the first link above have been good. Even though the sourdough craze of the pandemic has passed, it’s never too late to start your own. Or get a baby starter from a friend.

A little Labor Day baking

School starts this week and I thought I’d whip up some cookies to welcome my advisees and colleagues back. I’m going to make three of my favorites: Chocolate Chip Oatmeal with Ras el-hanout (NYTimes Cooking; paywall warning), Ginger Molasses Amber Ale (King Arthur Baking), and Salted Rosemary Shortbread.

Ras el-hanout was a real revelation for me because it is usually associated with savory cooking, but lends such a wonderful warmth and depth of flavor to the Chocolate Chip Oatmeal cookies. Like chili powder blends, every one is a different. Literally, the name means “top of the shop,” i.e. a blend of the best spices a merchant has to offer. I like the blend from Stock+Spice in NH.

In the ginger cookies, no alcohol remains: you reduce the 12oz of ale down to 1.5 oz. by boiling. The reduced ale adds a little bitter under-taste that pairs perfectly with the molasses and ginger. People often can’t believe that the ginger cookies contain (golden) raisins, but it adds to the flavor and chew.

And the rosemary shortbread doesn’t have a specific recipe. I use the basic shortbread recipe from the King Arthur Cookies Cookbook (an old edition), but any basic shortbread recipe you like would do. I finely mince the rosemary and mix it with the sugar and butter and then put Maldon’s sea salt flakes (crushed between my fingers) on the bottom before baking. The idea came from some Lark cookies that my mother bought.

Pictures of all three (from past bakes) can be seen on my baking site.